Monday, February 21, 2011

Halfway through London Fashion Week

Samantha Cameron has proved a huge draw with her support of the British Fashion Council, helping to attract style aristocracy including US Vogue editor Anna Wintour, new Vogue Paris editor Emmanuelle Alt and supermodel Kate Moss.

Belgian design duo Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos opened proceedings at the Old Billingsgate Market today, citing the Russian Revolution, the great riots of Paris and the unrest of today's
student youth as their inspiration.

They used clashing prints, deconstructed shapes and layering. Draped silk dresses had cut-out panels, while squares of fabric in clashing shades billowed on the backs of trousers, and strapless gowns featured patch-pocket details.
Intellectual and complex, this collection saw Peter Pilotto expand into outerwear - a new direction for the label best-known for pretty prints and wearable dresses. Elegant riding-coat styles in black and cream punctuated the collection.

Today's schedule is the busiest and most exciting of this season's event. This afternoon, British superbrand Burberry and Fashion Week favourite Christopher Kane were taking to the catwalk, while Giles Deacon was unveiling his collection this evening.

Burberry, which claims to have the most-viewed fashion show in the world, will be the first brand to show its catwalk offering live on one of the screens at Piccadilly Circus when it occupies the Coca-Cola sign's slot. Footage will also be beamed onto huge screens at 40 of its stores worldwide and to its website. It is estimated it will be seen in almost 200 countries.

Designer Richard Nicoll used moths as the theme of his autumn/winter collection yesterday. Devoré velvet, high-shine lamé and thick, undulating silk all mimicked the iridescence of moth wings.
Layering was key: a cocoon-shaped semi-transparent gazar blouse was worn over a three quarter-length pencil skirt; a silk tabard shirt with billowing handkerchief sleeves was shown over wide-leg trousers.

For evening, another Nicoll signature, the apron-backed dress, came in lamé chiffon and velvet. Too edgy for next week's Oscars, perhaps, but any red carpet would be enlivened. From the ferocious standing queues building outside the shows, it appears everyone wants a piece of Fashion Week - and London has been delivering, party-wise.

Mulberry hosted a bash at Claridge's last night, while Sir Philip Green presided over an intimate Topshop dinner at which he toasted future bride-to-be Moss and her rock guitarist fiancé Jamie Hince. Faces spotted include Simon Cowell, Kirsten Dunst, Rebecca Hall and Alexa Chung.

The overall standard of shows so far is high. Jonathan Saunders, Antonio Berardi and Acne were particularly fine, but Matthew Williamson, Henry Holland and Topshop Unique were also at the top of their game.

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